An extremely versatile paint suitable for exteriors giving ur home the grace it deserves. Mathulac-OPTIMA  Exterior imparts to a surface, in addition to decor, durability and protection against extreme climatic conditions. Being an acrylic co polymer emulsion paint assures excellent durability, alkali resistance and good colour retention. Mathulac OPTIMA WEATHER PROOF Exterior Emulsion is formulated to chalk gradually, becoming self cleaning to get great looking exteriors that stand the test of time.

Surface to be painted should be sound, clean and free from loose particles, dust, grease or fungus. Oldsurfaces with Alage growth require thorough cleaning and treatment.After cleaning apply household bleaching powder (Calcium Hypochloride with apporx 35% chlorine content) by adding 2 kg of bleaching powder to 50 ltrs of water. Brush the solution well on sutface and leave 24 hrs.Then wash down thoroughly and allow to dry. Ensure that water leakages and seepages are stopped completely before painting. For new Plaster the surface may be first coated with Mathulac Exterior Primer and finally coated with 2 -3coats. of Mathulac APT Exterior Emulsion. Apply self priming coat followed by 2 coats by thinning 1 ltr of paint by 650 ml of water. Covering capacity depends on texture and porosity of the exterior.

The formation of fine, hite powder on the surface of the paint film due to weathering, which may give the appearance of color fading. Although some degree of chalking is normal and can be desirable way for a paint film to wear, excessive paint film erosion may result in heavy chalking.

Oil-based paints tend to chalk more than latex formulations. Use of a low-grade, highly pigmented paint. Factory finished siding can develop an excessively thick chalk layer and may require power washing ensure complete chalk removal. Use of an interior paint for an outdoor application. Not adequately sealing a porous surface. Over thinning a coating (e.g. paint or stain). Spreading the paint too.

Chalk by washing or power washing the surface with an appropriate cleaner. If some chalk remains after first washing, then wash again for complete removal, scrubbing may be necessary. Rinse well with clear water.Allow to dry thoroughly. Brick areas that are stained by “chalk run- own” should be scrubbed with a stiff brush and detergent. Professional cleaning may be required to remove this staining. For the best resistance to chalking, use higher-quality acrylic.

Wood with the appearance of severe mildew but will not lighten when tested with bleach.Darkening and decaying wood generally has a more solid, consistent.

Darkening of wood is caused by ultraviolet radiation. This can take place on wood that has never been coated with a pr-otective coating (e.g. primer, paint or stain). It also can occur under clear varnishes and lightly pigmented stains. Diff-erent degrees of darkening can occur on different woods. If moisture's penetrates into the wood, varnish coatings will peel due to wooddecomposition under the coating. Woods that are exposed to weather are not protected against wood destroying organisms. Eventually the wood decays and ceases to be a coatable surface.

New woods should not be exposed to weathering for extended time periods. Paint and stain performance is best achieved when the new surface is coated before installation or immed iately after installation. if a wood surface is allowed to weather, the wood should be sanded to a fresh surface before priming. Wood that cannot be sanded to fresh wood must be replaced. If the surface is wet, it must be allowed to dry thoroughly prior to coating. Coatings can be applied to treated woods after the moisture content has dropped to a paintable level – usually 15% or below. To determine if thesurfaceiswaterproof, splash water on the sufrace'ss. If the water is absorbed and the surface becomes noticeably darker, the surface is not waterproof. This test is especially recommended for pressure.

Wash the surface, if it comes clean, painting may not be necessary. Interior - Remove stains, dirt and marks, use a soft cloth or sponge with water or a general purpose household cleaner. Pentrating stains and marks may be removed either by carefully using an abrasive cleaner and water or by applying asolution of household bleach diluted with water and then rinsing with clean water. Exterior - Remove dirt with a scrub brush and detergent solution or pressure washing, followed by a thorough rinsing. While dirt accumulation cannot be eliminated entirely, satin, gloss, and high-gloss paints are more resistant to picking up dirt.

Crusty, white salt deposits, which are leached to the surface of mortar or masonry as water passes through it. Efflor-escence is often seen as a white fluffy deposit of salt crystals on cementitious (e.g. masonry) wall surfaces. Efflorescence depends on the presence of salt and moisture, and the growth of the crystals will continue as long as both are present. The salts are present in the mortar,blocks, or concrete structure, and the moisture is usually attributable to some building defect. When emanating from mortar in brick or block buildings,

Failure to adequately prepare surface by removing all previous efflorescence. Interior moisture escaping through the exterior masonry walls. Exterior moisture driven through masonry walls by wind and rain. Basement walls that are not properly sealed against ground moisture penetration. 

Failure of dried paint to obscure or hide (e.g. ability to fully conceal painted surface) the underlying color or surface to which it is applied.

Applying too thin of a paint film. Use of paint with low hiding characteristics. Use of a paint that is much lighter or darker than the previous coat. Use of the wrong type or nap size of roller cover. Use of the wrong type or size of brush. Painting over a porous surface that absorbs the coating. Poor flow and leveling. Thinning/reducing

Follow label and data page directions for the appropriate film build (e.g. thickness of eachcoating layer). Prime the surface with the appropriate Sherwin-Williams Color Prime® system of gray shaded primers for the color of the top-coat. Determine the correct roller cover type or nap based on the coating being applied and the surface to be coated. On smooth surfaces, a mohair, 1/4”, or 3/8” roller nap is usually sufficient. On textured surfaces, a 3/4” nap or greater is needed. Prime porous surfaces before topcoating. Allow proper drying time.

Follow label and data page directions for the appropriate surface preparation. Follow label and data page directions for the appropriate film build. Determine the correct rollercover based on the coating being applied and the surface. On smooth surfaces, a mohair, 1/4”, or 3/8” roller nap is usually sufficient. On textured surfaces, a 3/4” nap or greater is needed. Smooth the coating by scraping and/or sanding, prime if needed, and repaint. Quality paints have very good application and hiding properties, which minimize the tendency to apply too thick a coat.

Steel in contact with air and moisture will rust (e.g. nails, steel railings, damaged galvanized, flashing, etc) Steel nails may develop black discoloration when in contact with damp wood that possesses a high amount of tannic acid.

Prime bare steel as soon as possible with a rust-inhibiting primer or finish. Replace steel nails with galvanized or other non-rusting nails. Rusted nails that cannot be removed must be sanded to shiny metal, countersunk, coated with a rustpreventive primer, and then caulked, filled, or patched, and topcoated.

Wearing away or removal of the paint film when scrubbed with a brush, sponge, Possible Cause Inadequate length of time allowed for paint to fully dry (i.e,cure) before washing or scrubbing. Use of an abrasive cleaner. Choosing the wrong sheen or product .

Allow adequate dry time, as scrub resistance will not fully develop until the paint is thoroughly cured. Try washing the painted surface with the least abrasive material - sponge or cloth and water, or the mildest detergent first. High traffic areas may require a semi-gloss or gloss paint rather than a flat or satin paint to provide good scrub resistance. Alkyd I oilbased paints are generally more scrubbable than latex coatings. Exterior products will seldom provide a scrubbable surface as they are softer and more flexible to accom- modate the expansion and contraction caused by temperature and humidity changes. Wash exterior surfaces carefully .

Brownish or tan discoloration on the paint surface due to migration of tannins from the substrate (e.g., the surface that was painted) through the paint film.

Typically occurs on “staining woods,” such as redwood, cedar, and mahogany, or over knots in certain other wood species. Tannin staining can occurs with any kind of wood. Most tan nins are water - extractive, some are solvent - extractive. Application of latex coatings directly to these woods may develop a stain on the finish coat if the product is not specifically designed to trap these tannins.uf the dry paint film is intact and discoloration occurs at a later date, then staining is being caused by water within the surface. The moisture will migrate and eventually carry staining substances from within the wood to the surface of the paint film.

If dry paint film is intact and discoloration is occurring at stoplater date, then internal moisture is usually the cause. The moisture source must be located and corrected. Allow the surface to dry thoroughly. Check to be sure the water has not affected the adhesion of the coating (e.g., primer, paint or stain). Seal the stains with an alkyd /oil primer or a coating designed to trap these tannins. Note: Even with proper preparation and recommended products, tannin bl-eed can still occur, especially on new wood, with either latex or oil topcoats. To wash off the tannin stain, use Deek Scapes TM Revive® Deck and Siding Brightener.

An area that shows an unwanted increase in gloss or sheen of the paint film as a result of rubbing, scrubbing, or having an object brush up against it.

Use of a flat paint in high-traffic areas, where a higher sheen level would be more durable. Frequent washing and spot cleaning with an abrasive cleaner. Heavy objects (furniture, for example) rubbing against the walls. Use of paint that has a low resistance to scrubbing.

Paint heavy-use areas that require regular cleaning (e.g., doors, window sills, and trim) with a paint that offers both durability and easier cleaning capability. In hight traficcrress, choose a semi-gloss or gloss finish rather than a flat sheen. To assure maximum wash ability and durability, wait at least two weeks before washing the dry paint film. When removing stains, dirt, and marks, use a soft cloth or sponge with water or a general purpose household cleaner. Penetrating stains and marks may be removed either by carefully using an abrasive cleaner and water or by applying a solution of house hold bleach diluted in water.

Premature and/or excessive lightening of the paint color, which can occur on surfaces with sunny exposures.This is relatively easy to see because hidden areas such as eaves will not usually fade. Fading/poor color retention can also be a result of chalking of coating (e.g. primer, paint or stain).

Cause Colors will fade slightly when exposed to intense sunlight. As the coating ages, the fading can become more noticable. Slight fading is acceptable, provided it is gradual and uniform so as not to be noticeable. Excessive chalking of the paint film will cause colors to appear lighter. Interior grade colorants used outside will fade. Adding more tint to the coating than is recommended. Interior coatings may also fade if they are near windows and there is significant sunlight exposure.

If the substrate is in good condition except for fading, clean as needed and repaint using a paint that is fade-resistant. Follow label and data page directions for surface preparation for the coating.

Patterned cracking in the paint film resembling the scales of an alligator. These cracks generally do not expose the substrate.

Natural aging of oil-based paints due to temperature fluctuation. The constant expansion and contraction results in a loss of paint film elasticity. Application of an extremely hard, rigid coating, like an oil enamel, over a softer,more more flexible coating. Application of a topcoat before the primer or basecoat is dry.

Remove old paint by scraping, sanding, chemical removers, or a heat gun. Follow all manufacturer cautions when using chemical removers or heat guns. Remove all surface cont amination by washing with ProClean Professional® Prep Wash Concentrated Cleaner or other appropriate cleaner rinse thoroughly and allow to dry. Glossy surfaces should be sanded dull. Follow label and data page directions for the appropriate drying time for any product.

Bubbles caused from a loss of adhesion and lieting of the paint film from the underlying surface.

Heat blistering caused by painting in direct sunlight on a surface that is too warm. Moisture blistering can be caused by the migration of water through an interior wall to the exterior, thus pushing the paint off of the surface. Application of oil-based or alkyd paint over a damp or wet surface. Exposure of latex paint film to dew, high humidity, moisture, or rain shortly after paint has dried, especially if there was inadequate surface preparation and I or poor ventilation in areas such as kitchens and bathrooms. Damp basements. Moisture seeping into the home through the exterior walls.

If blisters go down to the substrate (e.g. the surface that is painted), the cause is likely to be moisture escaping from the surface. Remove all loose paint (by scraping or other method) and sand the surface to smooth out any rough edges. Determines and repair any cause of excess moistures before repainting. Repair old or damaged caulking or install new caulking as needed, install vents or exhaust fans or siding wedges to allow the moisture a path to escape instead of going through the paint. If blisters go down to previous coat, remove all loose paint (by scraping or other methods), and sand the surface to smooth out any.

Undesirable adhesion between two painted surfaces or between paint and weather stripping. The paint sticks to itself or to the weather stripping when a window or door is opened and usually leaves bare patches of substrate.

Not allowing sufficient time for the coating to dry before closing doors or windows. Use of a paint with low block resistance (e.g.when two painted surfaces touch, the paint tends to adhere to itself).

Paint with an oil-base coating or use a high quality semi- gloss or gloss latexs with good block resistance. Remove all loose paint by scraping or other methods, and sand the surface to smooth out any rough edges. Remove all surface contamination by washing with ProClean Professional® Prep wash Concentrated Cleaner or other appropriate cleaner

Cracking 

The splitting of a dry paint film through at least one coat. In its early stages, the problem appears as hairline cracks

Use of a paint that has lower adhesion and flexibility properties. Over-thinning or over-spreading the paint. Inadequate surface preparation, or applying the paint to bare wood without first applying a primer. Excessive hardening and embrittlement of paint it ages, the coating loses the ability to expand and contract with

Remove loose and flaking paint with a scraper or wire brush, sanding the surface and feathering the edges. If the flaking occurs in multiple layers of paint, use of a spackling compound may be necessary to make a uniform surface. Test the coating surrounding any peeled areas out about 6” to 12” to be sure the adhesion is adequate. Prime bare wood or plaster before repainting. Apply the coatings at the recommended spreading rate (e.g. the recommended total area that can be painted) and using the recommended thinning.

Loss of adhesion of a coating to the substrate (e.g. the surface that was painted) or an earlier coating. Where there is a primer and topcoat or multiple coats of paint, peeling may involve some or all of the coats.

Seepage of moisture through uncaulked joints or worn caulk. Leaks in the roof or walls, or excess moisture escaping through the walls from the interior. Painting over a dirty, wet, or glossy surface.

Remove old, loose, cracked caulk, prime as needed, and caulk with the appropriate product. Find and repair any source of water. Follow label and data page directions for the proper surface preparation methods for the coating. Test the coating in a 6” to 12” radius around any peeled areas to be sure its adhesion.

A loss of adhesion a paint coating from concrete flooring resulting in flaking and peeling of the paint coating.

Inappropriate coating for the amount or type of wear and exposure the floor will receive. Poor adhesion, which often occurs if hardeners are added to concrete. Efflorescence, which occurs a water migrates through concrete and leaches alkali. Presence of grease, oil, wax, and dirts tend to soak in the and are difficult to remove from concrete. Moisture seeping through concrete floors in basements, especially when floors are laid on-grade without a moisture barrier. Aged concrete floor, which may crumble and take the paint film with it. Application of an oil-based floor finish is applied to a bares, unetched, uncured concrete floor. When oil resins contained in the floor coating come in contact with the alkaline concrete surface, they combine, react with one another, and form a soap film the concrete surface and the oil coating. This reaction is called saponirication and results in extremely. 

Under eavess, porches , and other protected areas, the natural cleaning effect of weather does not occur, and air pollution and other contaminants can build up. Salts, which can form during the life of the existing paint coating, were not removed before a new coat of paint was applied.These salts form an invisible film, preventing the previ-ous coating to bond with the new topcoat. Paints are applied to old hard and glossy paint films. Insufficient surface preparation.

Follow label and data page directions for proper surface preparation methods for the coating. Extra attention should be directed to areas that are not exposed to direct weathering. Test the coating in a 6 “to 12r” radius around peeled areas to be sure the adhesion is adequate.

Paint usually peels from window sills and frames because of moisture. Water standing on the sills eventually penetrates the paint rilm. When it later evaporates,then the pressure from under the film causes peeling. This moisture may be condensation on the interior, or rain and snow on the exterior. Paint also peels from window skills due to poorly sealed framing that was not properly caulked; or the caulk has cracked or peeled away, allo- wing water to undermine 

The source of the water must be found and repaired. Excessively damaged wood, plaster, or drywall may need to be replaced. Peeling paint must be removed if present. The stained area must be properly sealed with a primer designed to hold out water stains. Tobacco smoke stains, fire smoke and soot, and grease and oil all should be cleaned as much as possible from the surface using ProClean Professional PrepWash Cleaner or other appropriate cleaner. Stains must be sealed before topcoating. Rust must be mechanically removed (with a brush or power tool) and the substrate (e..g, the surface to be painted) primed with a rust-inhibiting primer. Tannins are extractives found in wood that can be leached out, generally with water, and discolor a coating. (See Tannin Staining for more). Solvent-soluble stains (stains that may be removed with a solvent based cleaning solution). oil, grease, tar, solvent-based markers, etc., and minor dried water stains.

New galvanized metal, a product used to make corrugated sheets, gutters, and down spouts, is usually smooth and is coated with a layer of oil to prevent white rust. Paint applied over this oily surface will peel quickly. Alkyd/oil paints that are applied to galvanized metal will adhere initially, but will quickly fail. The zinc of the galvanizing will chemically react with the alkyd binder of the paint, creating a soapy film (saponification) on the galvanized metal and causing the coating to peel. When unpainted galvanized metal is exposed to the atmosphere and allowed to weather without being painted and is exposed to t he atmosphere, the protective zinc coating will oxidize into a white rusts until eventually the zinc metal is depleted. The underlying steel will then rust.